The aroma of aged cheese, pungent and inviting, hangs heavy in the air. It’s a scent that transports you to another time, a time when food was a celebration, a ritual, a connection to the land and its traditions. This is the sensory experience that greets you at Cacio e Pera, a small but mighty deli nestled within the bustling De Calvi Market in Rome’s Monteverde neighborhood.
Matteo Pera: The Heart and Soul of Cacio e Pera
At the heart of this culinary haven is Matteo Pera, a Roman through and through, whose passion for cheese is as infectious as his market-vendor charm. With a glint in his eye and a ready smile, Matteo welcomes every customer, eager to share his knowledge and offer a taste of his prized collection. He’s not just selling cheese; he’s selling an experience, a story, a connection to the artisanal world of Italian dairy.
“People want to eat well; you just have to have the patience to explain why a good cheese can cost 70 euros a kilo. People understand, they’re not obtuse,” Matteo tells us, his voice resonating with conviction. This unwavering faith in his customers, and in the quality of his products, is what sets him apart. He’s a true market merchant, deeply rooted in the community, with no plans to expand beyond the vibrant energy of the local market. His dream? Perhaps a second location, but always within the familiar embrace of a bustling Roman market.
A Paradise for Cheese Lovers in Monteverde
Since its opening in October 2024, Cacio e Pera has become a beacon for cheese connoisseurs and curious foodies alike. Though a modest 17 square meters, this deli, located at Box 8, is a treasure trove of dairy delights. During the festive Christmas season, the counter boasted an impressive 130 different cheeses. On an average day, you’ll find around eighty varieties, each carefully selected by Matteo and his partner, Emanuela, whom he affectionately calls his “golden palate.”
Matteo’s iconic phrase, “Ma che te dico de no?” (Why would I say no?), is his playful response to anyone asking for a sample. Sharing his passion is paramount. “I worked in supermarkets for many years; I love to eat well and, most importantly, to make others eat well. That’s why I decided to go into business for myself, after traveling all over Italy with my partner in search of small producers.”
The Cheeses That Steal the Show
The response to Cacio e Pera has been overwhelmingly positive. “My products are expensive, not pricey,” Matteo clarifies, emphasizing the value of quality craftsmanship. Customers return again and again, some even meticulously documenting each cheese they taste in a notebook. The best-seller is the Mediterraneo, a lightly smoked cow’s milk cheese, aged in tomato sauce barrels. “It has hints of tomato, oregano, spices; it’s incredibly fragrant and one of the most unique,” he describes.
Currently, gorgonzola is in season, and Matteo delights in dusting off his old recipe books, offering customers advice on how to best incorporate these rich cheeses into their cooking. But his true passion lies with “Il pecorino sbagliato” (the mistaken pecorino) from Caseificio Maremma in Grosseto. This exceptional cheese was born from an error, when some forms were forgotten in the cellar and developed a unique mold, resulting in delightful notes. It was then refined with noble molds, creating a delicious product with a gorgonzola-like flavor and the texture of a pecorino.
Beyond Cheese: A Glimpse into Italian Delicacies
While cheese reigns supreme, Cacio e Pera offers a curated selection of other Italian specialties. You’ll find Ascolane olives from Migliori, directly from Ascoli Piceno, and the famous “scrocchia” pizza from Forno Marchetti. Fresh bread arrives daily, alongside a small selection of cured meats, exclusively Italian. The porchetta from Lattanzi, which Matteo declares “unbeatable,” is another crowd-pleaser. Every day brings fresh buffalo mozzarella from Cardito, near Naples, and ricotta, often still warm from production. The shelves are also stocked with blue cheeses, bloomy rind cheeses, and varieties made from raw or pasteurized milk. Each product has a story, and Matteo is always ready to share it, inviting customers to discover the rich tapestry of Italian flavors.
Cacio e Pera is more than just a deli; it’s a testament to the enduring power of passion, tradition, and community. It’s a place where food is celebrated, stories are shared, and every bite is a journey into the heart of Italian culinary heritage.
Source: https://www.gamberorosso.it/notizie/rubriche/miniguide/roma-formaggeria-mercato-monteverde/
