Milan Mourns Roberto Citterio, Visionary Behind Osteria alla Grande
Milan is in mourning following the passing of Roberto Citterio, the charismatic founder of Osteria alla Grande, an establishment he proudly championed as ‘Milan’s last true osteria.’ The news of his death was conveyed with Citterio’s characteristic irreverent irony, through a handwritten note affixed to the closed shutter of his beloved restaurant in the Baggio area: ‘Closed for ascent to the pastures of heaven.’
Citterio’s passing was also formally announced by his wife, Elena, and daughter, Maria Giulia, in the necrology pages of the Corriere della Sera, honoring his wish to be remembered by the very definition he gave his osteria.
The Legacy of Osteria alla Grande
Osteria alla Grande first opened its doors in 2001 in the Baggio district, having previously operated in via Morimondo. The name, ‘alla Grande,’ was inspired by Franco Fanigliulo’s song, ‘A me piace vivere alla grande’ (I like to live large). Over the years, the osteria earned a distinguished spot in the Slow Food guide to Italy’s osterias, a testament to its authentic culinary offerings.
The restaurant’s website boldly declared its mission: ‘The last stronghold against hamburgers, vegetarian food, barley coffee, and for those on a diet!’ This playful yet firm stance encapsulated Citterio’s commitment to traditional Milanese cuisine and a genuine dining experience.
A Culinary Haven with Unbeatable Prices
At the heart of Osteria alla Grande’s kitchen was Citterio’s wife, Elena, renowned for preparing risottos ‘as God commands.’ The osteria was also notable for its pricing, a ‘sore point’ in contrast to contemporary Milan’s dining scene. The website highlighted: ‘Here, the prices, both for quality and quantity, are decidedly lower than in Milan. A generous first course costs 10 euros, a second course with a side costs 16 euros.’ A fixed-price lunch menu was available for just 12 euros, offering exceptional value to its patrons.
A Place of Gathering and Unique Character
Roberto Citterio was more than just an owner; he was a central figure at Osteria alla Grande, making it a place ‘not just for dining but for meeting, original and unique in its kind, full of memorabilia and very strange objects found in the most incredible places, and occasions for songs and music with which the very talented Renato brightened the days.’ A regular customer reminisced on social media, describing Citterio as ‘a character, a friend.’ His establishment was a vibrant hub where food, music, and camaraderie intertwined, creating an unforgettable atmosphere for all who visited.
The Man Behind the ‘Osteria’
Citterio’s ironical and unconventional spirit was evident even in his final message. He was an ‘oste per antonomasia’ (an innkeeper par excellence), as many described him on social media. His vision for Osteria alla Grande was to preserve a piece of authentic Milanese culture, a place where tradition and genuine hospitality thrived amidst a changing culinary landscape. His passing marks the end of an era for many who cherished the unique experience he created.
The impact of Roberto Citterio on Milan’s gastronomic scene and the hearts of his patrons will be deeply felt. His legacy lives on in the memories of those who experienced the warmth, humor, and exceptional food of Osteria alla Grande, a true testament to his passion for life and good company.
