The aroma of aged cheeses, cured meats, and freshly baked panettone hangs heavy in the air, mingling with the hushed whispers of anticipation. It’s Christmas at Peck, the legendary Milanese institution that transforms into a bustling theatre of gastronomic delight during the festive season. Here, amidst the ornate garlands and burgundy velvet of Via Spadari, a unique tradition unfolds, drawing a diverse cast of characters – from loyal locals to international jet-setters – all united by a shared reverence for exquisite food.
A Glimpse into Milanese Christmas Rituals
As the doors swing open at 9 AM, an orderly queue, a serpent of anticipation, has already formed. Among them are Juliet and Rhodelyn, household staff from Milan’s alta borghesia, exchanging greetings and comparing lengthy shopping lists. “Directeur said if there’s no Russian salad, it’s not Christmas,” one confides, highlighting the meticulous demands of their employers. Inside, the scene is one of orchestrated precision. Immaculate white coats, perfectly pressed black aprons, and caps adorn the staff, their movements swift and their demeanor unwavering. “Immediately,” “please,” “just a moment”: the tone remains consistently courteous, even as the store fills with the festive throng.
Alfredo D’Avanzo, a long-serving clerk, greets a familiar face, a gentleman in a dark loden coat with a raised collar. “I want them exactly like last year. And if anyone notices, you deny it,” the habitué instructs, referring to a specific arrangement. D’Avanzo smiles, takes the tray without question, and responds, “As always, lawyer.” This unspoken understanding, this dance of tradition and trust, is at the heart of the Peck experience.
From Caviar to Truffles: A Symphony of Flavors
The shop quickly becomes a vibrant tableau of culinary desires. A thirty-something client, sporting a Richard Mille watch, gestures towards a truffle cheese tart. “This one, yes. But bigger,” he instructs, before taking a call and switching effortlessly between Russian and Italian. “Beluga caviar: 250 grams. Where do I order the champagne?” he asks, opting for a Krug Vintage 2011, a 600-euro bottle, without hesitation.
Nearby, a woman in a fur coat, pearls gleaming at her neck, surveys the trays with a discerning eye. “Fried rice with scallops. Warm. The children eat it too,” she declares, adding, “Also, the usual mashed potatoes and veal medallions with porcini mushrooms. You don’t skimp at grandma’s.” Each item, carefully selected, speaks to a rich tapestry of family traditions and festive indulgence.
Giampaolo Chite: The Maestro of the Intangible
Giampaolo Chite, affectionately known as “the Genoese,” is Peck’s resident VIP whisperer. He’s the man who procures the unfindable, resolves every whim, and even practices the lost art of kissing a client’s hand. The Sheikh of Qatar has his personal cell number. “I pamper them: they should never have to wait,” Chite explains. For these special clients, Peck’s doors never truly close; only the geometry of attention shifts. Some arrive by private jet, demanding their entire order be ready within two hours of landing at Linate. Chite recalls once processing a receipt for 60,000 euros. Yet, what truly moves him is the memory of a loyal customer, the economist Alfredo Ambrosetti, who would bring him a different book each year, always with a handwritten dedication. “‘This is for you,’ he would say. I keep them all.”
A Milanese Soul That Resists Change
“We come here to breathe a memory,” says Rubens Fadini, a long-time customer who returns each holiday season with his wife. “Milan has changed pace,” he observes, “but not here. Here, people still ask for advice, still return to the same counter for years.” It’s a testament to a certain Milanese spirit that endures. Marco Volpi, a veteran employee, notes the evolving clientele: “The new patrons are heirs: grandchildren of, children of. They are less concerned with manners, more focused on quality.” They know Peck from childhood but inhabit it differently, a “modernized loyalty” that embraces tradition while adapting to contemporary tastes.
Even international visitors, like Marta and Teresa, sisters from Seville, navigate the refrigerated displays in search of the “famous panettone of old Milan.” Carlita and Silvano, from Bellinzona, arrive with a mission: Parmigiano for their daughter, cleverly combining their culinary quest with an afternoon art exhibition and an evening at the theatre.
The Christmas Rush: A Well-Oiled Machine
As Christmas approaches, the demand intensifies. “We’re at three thousand panettone, we need to speed up,” says Pier Luigi Borroni, a seasoned counter assistant. The week before Christmas sees a proliferation of activity: pots the size of bathtubs, meats aged for weeks, creams whipped, guinea fowl stuffed, and galantines assembled. Beneath the Duomo’s stone, in the former bank vault that housed the building until the early 20th century, a subterranean labyrinth of laboratories, cold rooms, and cellars hums with activity. “There’s no confusion,” Pier Luigi explains. “Everyone knows exactly what they need to do.”
In just a few days, nearly 11,000 receipts are processed, consuming approximately 350 kilograms of mascarpone, three quintals of lean ravioli, and a ton of cotechino. This festive period accounts for roughly a fifth of Peck’s annual turnover and mobilizes 170 dedicated staff members. “Did you mark the nervetti?” Juliet asks, turning slightly. “They decided not to exchange gifts this year, but the shopping has to be perfect.” Giampaolo’s phone vibrates once. He listens, hangs up. “White truffle,” he announces. “Immediately.” He takes two steps, glances towards the entrance. “Moratti is coming.” The rhythm of Christmas at Peck continues, a timeless symphony of taste, tradition, and the enduring magic of Milanese gastronomy.
Source: https://milano.corriere.it/notizie/cronaca/25_dicembre_23/natale-da-peck-la-spesa-per-le-feste-nel-tempio-della-gastronomia-milanese-abbiamo-battuto-scontrini-da-60mila-euro-4e007471-945b-443d-831e-dabc7bbaaxlk.shtml
