‘Fashion in Light 1955-1975’: Rome’s Golden Age of Glamour and Innovation on Display
Rome, Lazio, Italy – An evocative exhibition, ‘Fashion in Light 1955-1975 – Rome between glamour and industrial innovation,’ opened its doors on June 26, 2026, at the Centrale Montemartini of the Capitoline Museums. This unique showcase transports visitors back to a vibrant era when Rome solidified its position as a global capital of glamour, creativity, film, and industrial ingenuity. The exhibition, running until November 15, 2026, features an extensive collection of 150 photographs, largely from the Istituto Luce archives, rare and previously unseen films, and a remarkable ensemble of objects, fabrics, and 27 original, mostly unexhibited, garments. These pieces were crafted by the skilled tailors, stylists, ateliers, and small workshops that thrived in the Eternal City during that period.
A Glimpse into Fashion History: Iconic Designers and Their Creations
The exhibition proudly displays creations from legendary names in fashion. Among them is Valentino Garavani, with his iconic ‘Fiesta’ dress from his inaugural 1959 fashion show, featuring Model 77 – the first design in the signature red hue that would become synonymous with the brand. Other renowned designers whose works are showcased include Karl Lagerfeld for Fendi, Federico Forquet, Sorelle Fontana, Giovanna Caracciolo-Carosa, Valentina Visconti, Irene Galitzine, Fernanda Gattinoni, Roberto Capucci, Maria Antonelli, Patrick de Barentzen, Renato Balestra, André Laug, Emilio Federico Schuberth, Gabriellasport, Antonio De Luca, Angelo Litrico, Domenico and Agostino Caraceni, Pino Lancetti, and Laura Biagiotti.
Rome: The Heart of Cinema and Haute Couture
Fabiana Giacomotti, journalist and curator of both the exhibition and its accompanying catalog, emphasized the profound impact of this era. “It was a period of great activity and creativity,” Giacomotti stated at the press conference. “A historical period when American majors, starting with 20th Century Fox, transferred many productions and their stars to Rome, benefiting from a low-cost but highly specialized and valuable workforce even before the birth of Cinecittà in 1937. It was a world of tailor shops and workshops that found themselves projected onto runways, magazines, and clients worldwide, becoming the haute couture of the 1950s. Even today, studios or new production companies like Netflix turn to Roman tailor shops like Annamode, Tirelli, Farani, or the more recent The One or D’Inzillo, and to a renewed Cinecittà.”
Antonio Saccone, President of Cinecittà, further highlighted Rome’s cinematic legacy. “Cinecittà is present through the Luce Archive, which testifies to the era with photographs and films. We are in Hollywood on the Tiber, in the Rome of ‘La Dolce Vita’. Let’s imagine the city which, despite the devastations of the war, provided specialized labor and filled with stars who filmed great cinematic masterpieces at Cinecittà.”
Collaboration and Innovation: Beyond the Runway
The exhibition also includes a section dedicated to ‘alba amicorum’ – tokens of friendship – that tailors dedicated to Angelo Litrico, featuring contributions from Valentino, Emilio Pucci, Novella Parigini, and Emilio Federico Schuberth. These pieces underscore the strong collaboration and mutual respect that characterized the fashion community of the time. The role of textile factories and chemical industries of the period, such as Snia-Viscosa, a artificial textile industry based in the capital, is also acknowledged, demonstrating the broader industrial innovation that underpinned Rome’s fashion ascendancy.
A Trilogy of Fashion: Rome, Florence, and Milan
Giacomotti revealed that this exhibition marks the second chapter in a planned trilogy. The first, ‘Fashion in Light, 1925-1955,’ was held at Palazzo Pitti in Florence last year. “We are awaiting the third and final chapter, which we will set up in Milan, the city where the fashion system consolidated,” she informed the press.
The initiative is organized by Archivio Luce Cinecittà in collaboration with the Ministry of Culture and promoted by Roma Capitale, the Department of Culture and Coordination of Initiatives related to Remembrance Day, and the Capitoline Superintendence for Cultural Heritage. Museum services are provided by Zètema Progetto Cultura. For more information, visit centralemontemartini.org.
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