Stepping into Menabò, one’s gaze is immediately drawn to the small counter opposite the entrance, the bright, airy room with its pale blue and white walls, and the dark shelves neatly lining bottles. It creates an initial impression of a contemporary, well-designed bistro. However, this feeling quickly dissipates as the bustling tables, the generous and inventive dishes emerging from the kitchen, and the palpable rhythm of enjoyment in the air reveal Menabò’s true identity. From its inception, Menabò has embraced the spirit of the modern trattoria – a traditional establishment that doesn’t awkwardly cling to the past but proudly lives in the present, built with thoughtful consideration and a cuisine that consistently uplifts the spirit.
Centocelle: A Neighborhood in Flux
We are in Centocelle, an eastern quadrant of Rome, nestled between the Prenestina and Casilina consular roads. Historically a working-class district, once a rural settlement, it became a haven for many Southern Italian laborers seeking employment and stability. Its story began in the early 20th century with the construction of a military airport, of which only an asphalted runway remains today within Centocelle Park. Evolving from an urban expansion area into a post-war destination for working-class families, Centocelle now navigates a different equilibrium. Its growth, at times somewhat homogenized, has redefined its social fabric. The opening of Metro C in 2014 significantly improved accessibility and attractiveness, yet at the same time, rents have soared, and the risk of gentrification is becoming increasingly apparent. Nevertheless, it remains a vibrant working-class neighborhood, boasting an interesting gastronomic scene and diverse cultural offerings (a visit to the Arab Market is highly recommended).
Menabò: A Destination, Not a Coincidence
Within this evolving context, Menabò has operated with remarkable consistency since 2018, without resorting to flashy publicity. Given its location, it’s not an establishment one stumbles upon by chance; it’s a place chosen deliberately, recommended to family and friends who seek good food without falling for more predictable options. One travels across the city with a clear intention: to dine without disappointment and without limiting oneself to the most convenient geographical locations.
The Camponeschi brothers, Paolo in the kitchen and Daniele in the dining room, manage this space without special effects, focusing instead on two certainties: robust cuisine and a dining room that perfectly orchestrates the rhythm of the courses. Daniele attends to the tables with natural grace, sufficiently ironic, never cloying, perhaps even a little shy, though he claims otherwise. He chuckles when this is pointed out. The cuisine is consistently delightful and straightforward, the menu easily understandable – a crucial element in a city like Rome, where restaurant menus have often taken a bizarre turn, describing dishes as if they were obscure Shakespearean quotes.
The Dynamic Menu at Menabò
As mentioned, the menu at Menabò changes frequently, and this is its true strength. You return after some time, and it feels like a new experience, always improving, always reliable. The dishes are built upon recognizable ingredients, with precisely executed cooking methods and a structure that prioritizes full flavor over embellishments. There’s no traditional Roman cuisine here (and frankly, we consider that a good thing).
The pig’s liver in caul fat is a perennial fixture. This is a dish that can divide opinions, but here it consistently finds an interesting balance: the caul fat retaining the juices, the onions adding sweetness and accompaniment, and the bay leaf leaving a constant aromatic trace. You might try to order something different, but in the end, you always come back to it.
Then there’s the duck roast beef, which particularly impressed us on our recent visit. Perfectly cooked, with a rosy center, compact and juicy meat, served on dark bread that introduces a toasted, slightly bitter note. Alongside it, a marvelous homemade giardiniera and a mustard mayonnaise bind everything together, propelling the dish forward. The plin, larger than the canonical format, filled with coratella, arrive with smoked milk and vignarola. A hearty, structured dish with a noticeable richness, balanced by the vegetables that keep pace and restore equilibrium without ever losing intensity. Absolutely delicious.
Meanwhile, the service maintains an excellent rhythm, allowing guests to order multiple dishes, linger, or add a glass of wine, without ever interrupting the pleasure of a pause. Time flows at a steady pace, encouraging guests to truly *be* there before simply eating. And then there are the strangozzi with guanciale, artichokes, mint, and pecorino, representing the more direct side of the cuisine – utterly delightful and indispensable when available. Thick pasta, crispy guanciale without being excessive, bitter artichokes that paradoxically sweeten the last few forkfuls, mint adding zest, and a generous amount of pecorino. A dish that oscillates between comfort and more comfort. The fried squid and artichokes are also very pleasant.
Vegetables: A Revelation for Carnivores
But Menabò is also a certainty on another front: vegetables and plant-based cuisine in general, executed so skillfully that even carnivores become enthusiasts. The fusilloni with pesto, potatoes, green beans, and cherry tomatoes are a testament to this. Here, meat-free cuisine is not an alternative but a choice of taste. A memorable oven-baked escarole with raisins, served by the Camponeschi brothers at a wedding, makes us loudly demand its inclusion on the menu!
Next comes the marinated cockerel with yogurt and spices, featuring robust, consistent meat – no chicken that disintegrates at the first touch. The marinade infuses without overpowering, and the herbs add a bitter note that completes the circle. The side dishes are part of the same philosophy. The sautéed chicory, the fork-mashed potato puree with its irregular texture, and the mixed greens, combining authentic herbs carefully gathered and prepared, all speak of a cuisine that places vegetables at its core.
The wine list follows the same logic, with a selection built on artisanal productions, less obvious labels, and choices spanning Italy and beyond, all with fair markups. The bottles on the shelves integrate into the scene, while Daniele’s guidance remains the most effective reference for navigating the selection. The only less convincing aspect comes at the end, with a rice-based dessert treated like a crème brûlée, where the top layer doesn’t develop the desired crisp consistency, resulting in a more uniform texture. For everything else, Menabò stands as one of Rome’s most interesting and solid contemporary trattorias. Try it to believe it.
Menabó Vino e Cucina – Via delle Palme, 44 D Rome – Tel. 0686937299, Website
Source: https://www.gamberorosso.it/notizie/ristoranti/menabo-roma-centocelle-migliore-trattoria/
